Forever Moher

As you climb on the Cliffs of Moher,

Above shores where power is distilled,

The clock hands seem to stop ticking over

To pause as each hour is filled.

Standing high on the Cliffs of Moher,

You can lose track of trouble and care;

While you sigh, watching brave birds hover,

Reflecting on life as you stare.

- On the Cliffs of Moher, a poem by Benny the Busker

In everyone's lifetimes, you visit a place, or share an experience with loved ones that stays with you for one reason or another.  Sometimes it's nostalgia. many of the places hold sentimental memories, they often provide an escape from the doldrums of everyday life and the grind of the ongoing passage of time.

And every once in a while, it's because you're able to soak in the sights in some of the most beautiful places on the face of the Earth (and doing it with the one you love carries an extra bonus.)

That's the case of the Cliffs of Moher in County Clare, which almost everyone will tell you, is a staple on anyone's trip to the Emerald Isle.

O’Brien’s Tower stands on a headland at the Cliffs of Moher offering up magnificent views south towards Hags Head (our destination) and north towards Doolin. The Tower was built in 1835 by Cornelius O’Brien, a descendant of Brian Boru, the first High King of Ireland. A local landowner, Cornelius was ahead of his time and believed that the development of tourism would benefit the local economy and help bring local people out of poverty.

The tower was used as an observation tower for the hundreds of visitors who even then came to the Cliffs each year to see the breathtaking views. On a clear day, you can see across to the Aran Islands: Inis Oírr, Inis Méain and Inis Mór.  Looking to the left you capture the whole of Liscannor Bay with Lahinch in the distance and Liscannor village in the foreground.  Looking to the right you are met with beautiful views of Galway Bay.

My wife - she LAUGHS in the face of danger

Couldn't resist posing with my namesake transportation mode, though in Ireland it clearly carries a different connotation than it does in the history of America when it comes to law enforcement

So, the walk up to O'Brien's Tower under our belts, we decided to expand the experience exponentially, and venture past those Danger signs to traverse the walkways leading out to Hag's Head, the southerly most point of the cliffs, so named because of a rock formation in the cliffs that resemble a woman's head looking out to sea.

That tiny structure seen in the center of this next frame is the previously photographed O'Brien's Tower.

Here's Jack, following the worn-down footpath, wondering if she should forge her own way atop the grass to her right - the only piece of land separating her from the cliff face and a 700 foot drop to the rocks below.

Quarrying of the local flagstone was a major industry in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. This section of the cliffs was used as a dumping ground for quarry waste, and visitors have since used this to build a collection of cairns.  There are literally thousands of cairns of all shapes and sizes in this detour from the walking path.

Naturally, we had to pause and add our own artistic touch to the Valley of the Cairns.  John, if you're reading, take a deep breath - it's permitted and encouraged here.

We finally made it out to Moher Tower, the stone ruin of an old Napoleonic-era watchtower which stands atop Hag's Head.  

The current tower built in 1808 stands close to the site of a much earlier promontory fort, known as Mothar or Moher. This earlier fortification stood until at least 1780. The earlier fortification was demolished in 1808 to provide material for a new lookout/signaling tower. This "newer" one was built nearby during the Napoleonic Wars (1803–1815), at a time when similar towers were built along Atlantic coasts to counter fears of invasion during Napoleon's reign in Europe.

Amazingly, though, and for the third time in this trip, Scott and I would be thwarted from reaching a lighthouse or castle promontory by accursed chain link fencing.

We really walked all of those cliffs, eh?

Scott and I, adventurers two, ventured a little further past the Tower of Moher to join some other daring explorers who were casting their fates to the formidable winds to explore some paths that descended the cliff side.

This would be about as far as we two would dare, in great part because our more logically-thinking wives were calling to us from atop the cliff, summoning us back to the relative safety of their arms.  Relax ladies - the cliffs are only about 390 feet tall here, although a young college student did sadly fall to her death from here the month before we visited.  Around 70 people have died in falls from these cliffs - both accidentally and intentionally - in the last 25 years.

The cliffs themselves run more than 5 miles along the Atlantic Coast

They take their name from a fort called Mothar, which was demolished during the aforementioned Napoleonic Wars.  The word Mothar, in Old Galeic, means the ruin of a fort.
Singer Dusty Springfield's ashes were scattered her by her family after her death.

Another fun fact: The Cliffs of Moher are featured in the 2009 Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince movie as the backdrop for the entrance to the Horcrux Cave.  They're also the Cliffs of Insanity from the Princess Bride flick.

More than 1 million people visit these cliffs every year, and it's easy to see why.  From the buskers who populate the sanctioned trail and provide a soothing soundtrack to the experience to the solitude found once you venture past the DANGER signs (and still follow the paths), it's an indelible memory that will forever help paint the picture of Ireland memories.

It's hard to believe that my ancestors left these parts to seek a new life in the Massachusetts, considering how breathtakingly beautiful the Irish sea cliffs are. and knowing what awaited her in Lowell during the birthyears of the Industrial Revolution.  But hey, if my great-grandmother Bridget Sullivan hadn't packed up and left the nearby village Darragh over 150 years ago, I wouldn't be sitting here writing this blog.

And for that, I'll be thankful Forever Moher.

Abbey Mode

Located just over one hour from Galway City, Kylemore Abbey is one of Ireland’s top tourist attractions. It was built in the late 1800s by Mitchell Henry, a wealthy businessman, and liberal politician. The name Kylemore originates from the Irish words Coill Mór – meaning Great Wood.

Inspired by his love for his wife Margaret, and his hopes for his beloved Ireland, Henry created an estate boasting ‘all the innovations of the modern age’. An enlightened landlord and vocal advocate of the Irish people, Henry poured his life’s energy into creating an estate that would showcase what could be achieved in the remote wilds of Connemara.

This iconic castle is set in the most idyllic location, nestled between the base of Druchruach mountain and the picturesque Lough Pollaacapull. The view of the Abbey with the backdrop of the rugged landscape reflected in the stillness of the lake is a sight to behold, making it an unforgettable part of a trip to Connemara.  Standing on the banks of the lough, you couldn't help but bask in the glory, majesty, and serenity of this stunning countryside.

Today Kylemore Abbey is owned and run by the Benedictine community who have been in residence here since 1920.

Originally called Kylemore Castle, it was built between 1863 and 1868 as a private home for the family of Mitchell Henry, a wealthy politician from Manchester, England who was also MP for Galway County from 1871 to 1885.

This particular day, a very special woman was Lady of the Abbey, hosting a dinner party for Ireland's highest society.

After the death of Henry's wife Margaret in 1875, Mitchell did not spend much time there. He and his wife are both buried in the small mausoleum near the church in the grounds of the abbey (see below). 

Alongside the Abbey is the amazing Victorian Walled Garden

In the mid-nineties, the Benedictine nuns began work on the Victorian Walled Garden which had fallen into despair having not been maintained by previous owners. The magnificent Walled Garden was one of the last walled gardens of the Victorian era built in Ireland and the only Irish walled garden to be built in the middle of a bog. During Henry’s ownership it contained twenty-one glasshouses, which were very advanced for the time. To grow exotic plants, they were heated by hot water going through a system of underground pipes linked to three boilers. 

The nuns worked to restore the gardens back to their Victorian standard and rebuilt two glasshouses as well as the gardener’s cottage. The Walled Garden at Kylemore is beautifully manicured and this heritage garden only grows plants and vegetables from the Victorian era.  Both Jackie and Scott left this particular greenscape with a slew of new ideas for their own gardens back home in the states.

Our pilgrimage to the Abbey in the rear view mirror, it was back to Galway for a final night of frivolity, starting with a rooftop down dinner.

And then it was on to one of the finest and most unforgettable pub experiences on the trip: a pint at O'Connors.

Fans of musician Ed Sheeran will recognize this pub from his epic Galway Girl music video.  This particular night featured a trio of performers - on the guitar, fiddle, and bodhran drum.

The bar was packed and pulsing alongside the ballads and shanties.  Throughout the pub, pints were being hoisted, friends were gathering, memories were being made and friendships and courtships were being celebrated.

Including of course, me and my own Galway Girl

A must-see stop on anyone's Irish circuit, the bar really is famous, even more so now because it provided a core Ireland memory for this travelling foursome.

Cong is King

Oodles of light, what a beautiful sight
Both of God's eyes are shining tonight
Rays and beams of incredible dreams
And I am a quiet man

- a Quiet Man by John Prine

Quite unexpectedly and not part of an "official" itinerary, we stumbled upon the magical town of Cong in County Mayo.  It provided us with an incredible stroll through the ruins of the Royal Abbey, a visit to St. Mary of the Rosary Catholic Church, and a walk around the pathways behind the Abbey Ruins.  We would have loved to explored the miles of trails off the ruins, but alas, other destinations of the day beckoned.

Cong Abbey is also know as the Royal Abbey of Cong, and is a historic site in this County Mayo town of Cong in Ireland's province of Connacht.  The ruins of this former Augustinian Abbey mostly date back to the 13th century and have been described as featuring some of finest examples of medieval ecclesiastical architecture in Ireland.

We couldn't resist posing by the cloisters.  And because this is a family blog, we'll avoid the inappropriate puns.

My love

Can't explain how wondrous it is to come upon ruins such as these in the middle of a rural community, with little to no warning,  To see them still standing after all these centuries is inspirational, and something to behold.

At one point in time, the Abbey was home to about 3,000 occupants

It is also the location where Rory O’Connor, Ireland’s last High King, died.

We stopped also at the Monk's Fishing House, below, where, appropriately enough, there were some casters on this glorious summer day.

The Monk's Fishing House on the River Cong was built sometime between the 15th and 16th centuries and, as the name suggests, was used by the monks of Cong Abbey for fishing.

This small house is built right on the river, on a platform of stones. There is a trapdoor in the floor leading to the flowing river beneath, where the monks would use a net to catch the fish. Not only were the monks sheltered from the everchanging weather, but the remains of a fireplace shows that the monks were also kept warm while they fished. It is thought that there was a line strung from the fishing house to a bell in the kitchen of the abbey. With a tug on the line, the cooks would know there would be fish for supper.

A fun fact, already known by many of you, but Cong was the setting for much of the 1952 movie the Quiet Man, a 1952 American rom-com drama directed by John Ford and starring John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara.  This fact was news to me, but quickly reinforced by the amount of Quiet Man memorabilia round the town center, including a museum, cafe, and this statue depicting an iconic scene in the movie. The statue depicts the characters of Mary Kate Danaher and John Thornton from the film, which netted Ford the Academy Award for Best Director.

I think we were channeling our own John Wayne and Maureen O'Hara, swept up in the romance of the village and the unforgettable ruins,

Wanted to reenact the movies iconic scene, but Jackie was worried she wouldn't be able to pick me up

Thanks for a fabulous detour, Cong!  Not the 8th Wonder of the World, as Carl Denham would have hawked, but pretty damn impressive, nonetheless!

Down by the Bay

"If we could make chains with the morning dew the world would be like Galway Bay" 

- John Lennon's the Luck of the Irish

We made our way over to Ireland's left coast, and one of the most placid and relaxing spots on the trip thus far - Galway Bay.  Located, appropriately, in County Galway, the bay is about 30 miles long, with the Aran Islands off to the west, and multiple other islands within the bay itself.  Our pitstop on this part of the trip landed us at the luxurious Galway Bay Hotel.

The hotel, located directly across the street from the ocean and its accompanying beaches, provided the setting for a nice, romantic late afternoon walk with my sweetie.

The oceanwalk provided a picturesque, flat and calming pathway to pass the time holding hands and asking strangers to take corresponding hug photos.

Up bright and early the next morning, the absolutely picture-perfect beach day provided us an oceanside morning run.  And for the second time on this trip, our running explorations brought us to memorials commemorating the famine in Ireland, the last memorial being in Dublin on the River Liffey.

This particular commemoration is the Mutton Light Famine Memorial, spotlighting the last lighthouse on their homeland Ireland seen by thousands of the refugees who fled the country through the Port of Galway during the Great Famine of 1847-1850.  This actually corresponds with the period of time when some of my ancestors made their way to America (more on that later)

Scott and I felt it would be appropriate to make our way out to the lighthouse, but alas, security fences being what they are, we weren't able to run to the base of this particular edifice.

HOWEVER, the same would not be said for just a bit later that morning when we made an inland trip to find one of Ireland's oldest standing lighthouses, the Ballycurrin Lighthouse.

Built in 1772, Ballycurrin Lighthouse is  on the eastern shore of Lough Corrib, at Ballycurrin Demesne, Headford. This unusual lighthouse lies just inside County Mayo on the Galway/Mayo border and is said to be the only known inland lighthouse of its type in Europe.

It has a modest height of approximately 22 feet and its upper section can be accessed via spiral metal and stone steps attached to the exterior. Due to years of neglect/disrepair, however, the staircase is no longer considered safe, so we were cautioned not to try to climb to the top.

Lighthouse-thwarted twice in one day for Scott and I!

The 252-year-old lighthouse has a mill stone for its roof and the uppermost section of the lighthouse would have been used to burn timber to create a beacon.

Records suggest it was built by a local landowner, Sir Henry Lynch, in 1772 who needed a marker to get his provisions off the Galway to Cong ferry to his home at Ballycurrin House, though some believe it was in fact built by his wife so that he could have a marker to make his way home after visiting the pubs in Galway & Cong!

This stop provided one of those moments you hear about from nearly every person who makes a trip to Ireland - the friendly, warm welcomes you get from the denizens of the Emerald Isle.

In this particular case, it was John, who invited us into his house so he could proudly show us what he considered to be the best view of Lough Corrib - the largest lake in the Republic of Ireland, and the second largest lake on the entire Emerald Isle.

John couldn't have been nicer, and was thrilled to tell us that the day before we arrived to the lighthouse alongside his lakefront home, the local council had voted to dedicate funding to the restoration of said lighthouse!  In fact, when we pulled up next to John's home, he thought we were members of the council coming to check out the beacon.

Alas, John, it was just four travelers from America.  But thank you for opening your doors and hospitality to us to show us how important it is to connect with and respect the locals who call Ireland home!  And yes, the view was spectacular!

Athlone Again, Naturally

Time to head out of Dublin and cut across the center of Ireland, with our eyes set on the West Coast, and ultimately, Galway.

But in the meantime, as so often happens as you traverse the highways of Ireland, you need to make an occasional detour to check out some of the smaller villages, towns, and of course, castles, that  rise up out of the landscape with little to no warning.

This particular pitstop brought us to Athlone Castle.

A little bit of history on this particular castle, built around 1210.  Between 1689 and 1691, Ireland was a significant battleground in a major European conflicts, and armed forces would come face to face on the battlefields, marking one of the the most destructive periods in Irish military history.

William of Orange had proclaimed himself King and his supporters called themselves the ‘Williamites’. Having lost control of his kingdoms, James II would look to France for military help. A multi-national army was organized, and James’ military supporters soon became known as the ‘Jacobites’.  Following a decisive win over James for the Williamites, James’ army moved west and would hold the line at Athlone. This was a Jacobite stronghold on an important river crossing.

And yes, those are the same Jacobites from Outlander, and also, quite possibly leaves on the Scottish ancestral trees of both Jackie and Scott.

William was spurned at his first attempt to besiege the town, his initial attack quelled by the might of the Jacobite army and the Governor of Athlone, Colonel Richard Grace. Forced to retreat, King William’s forces under the command of Lieutenant-General James Douglas planned a much greater assault on Athlone for the following summer.

And in June 1691, the Great Siege of Athlone took place. 

In 10 days the Williamites fired off 12,000 cannonballs and 600 bombs during the heaviest bombardment in Irish history. The Williamites made a final effort with a well-organized, surprise attack launched across the old ford. The Jacobite defenders, taken unawares, offered only feeble resistance, and were soon overwhelmed.  No Jacobite counterattack was possible. Athlone had fallen. 

Athlone was the scene of a veritable bloodbath as up to 500 Jacobites fell during the final Williamite assault. Over the ten-day bombardment of Athlone and its stronghold, 1,500 men lost their lives in battle. Following the Williamite victory at Athlone, they would go on claim victory in one of the bloodiest battles in Irish history at Aughrim in Co. Galway. Following the Siege of Limerick weeks later, a truce was finally declared and the Treaty of Limerick signed in October 1691 ended the war in Ireland.

Sounds worthy of hoisting a pint for this piece of history, no?

And where better to do that than literally, IRELAND'S OLDEST BAR?!?!

SLAINTE!

Where's that you ask?
Well it's literally right next door to the Athlone Castle, a little pub called Sean's Bar.

This is a statue of Sean.  And yes, he does bear an uncanny resemblance to our fellow E Streeter Sean Kenny.

Coincidence you say?  Not likely.  We've seen our Sean strike the same pose.

Sean’s Bar, with its woodchip-covered floor and walls made of wattle and wicker interwoven with horse hair and clay, has been in business since the Dark Ages. Located near the ruins of the aforementioned 12th-Century Norman Castle, it is the oldest pub in Ireland, a claim officially certified by Guinness World Records 20 years ago.  But many countrymen, including the current owners and a plethora of Athlone regulars and respected Irish historians, also believe it to be the oldest in the world.  Who am I to question that claim?

According to archaeological research conducted and verified by the National Museum of Ireland, Sean’s Bar dates as far back as around 900 AD! This predates the defeat and decline of the Vikings in Ireland, the Anglo-Norman conquest of Ireland and the creation of whiskey and black beer themselves, with which the Emerald Isle’s pubs have become synonymous. Now that's a legacy!

Athlone - absolutely a worthy destination to add to anyone's Ireland itinerary.

Galway, here we come!