Storming the Castle

Much like Tyrion Lannister, I drink and I know things.  And this I know: If you're in County Clare, just about 20 minutes outside of Ennis, you have to make sure to drop by the grounds of Bunratty Castle, a 15th century tower house.  The name Bunratty means "mouth of the Ratty River," which references the nearby Owenogarney River which empties into the Shannon Estuary after flowing past the castle and its village.

Channeling Tyrion's father, Tywin, I took a moment to consider all things thrones in the great hall at the castle.

As you can see, Lords and Ladies abound in this castle.

The castle stairwells are not for the faint of heart, broad of shoulder, or wide of foot for that matter.  Not much room to maneuver these staircases!

The site on which Bunratty Castle stands was originally a Viking trading camp established somewhere around 970.

The present iteration of the castle is the last of four castles to be built on the site, and is believed to have been built somewhere around 1425.

Outside the castle proper, there's a small 26 acre village - Bunratty Folk Park - akin to the likes of Sturbridge Village in Massachusetts.  There, tradesman and artisans show off their skills in the working shops and sell their wares in the small shopping village on the castle grounds.

It was here we met Seamus, one of the most charming homelanders in Ireland, who was humble yet proud to show off the work he did as a blacksmith.

And for ye blog readers who have long accused me of being full of hot air, here's photographic proof of me putting it to good use and helping fan the flames.

Seriously - can't say enough about the hospitality and genuine passion this man has for his job.  He exudes his love of blacksmithing, and actually surprised to find these two smithys wanted to take their pic with him.

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Outside the castle grounds proper lies Durty Nelly's pub.  Many readers of this blog have visited said pub themselves over the years, and many of them have left their stickers or police badges on the bulletin boards within.

Nellys was established in 1620, on the banks of the Owengarney River with the Clare Hills behind it.

Here's just a piece of the legend of Durty Nelly:

Almost as famous in Ireland as Molly Malone herself, Durty Nelly holds a special place in the hearts of drinkers from around the world! Today, her namesake pub Durty Nelly’s near Bunratty Castle continues her legacy with the history and character we enjoy so much from Ireland.

“Many many moons ago in the misty past of Cratloe’s rolling country side there lived a buxom lady, tall in stature, but shapely and appealing to all.  She was known simply as Durty Nelly… a name that puzzled all who had the good fortune to be granted her welcome but soon became apparent…

Times were hard in Ireland but one could say that Durty Nelly was wily and always found a way to make ends meet. She was keeper of the toll-bridge over the river Owengarney which flowed outside her window on its way to join the Shannon.

All visitors who sought to cross the bridge would have to pay their dues to Nelly – those who could not pay in cash paid in kind with the presentation of a chicken, a few eggs, a piece of home-cured bacon or even, legend has it, a bit of ‘comfort’ for the lady herself.

Durty Nelly was a woman of considerable charm, known to the virile men of the day, from Galway to Cork, Dublin to Limerick. The highway into and out of the city of Limerick was always open to these … toll or no toll …Durty Nelly’s hospitality to the many travelers coming across the bridge gained her a place in many a man’s fond memories, handed down through the centuries.

Check out the rest of her story for some great Irish folklore!